A Bamako Burger Review*

-by Lisa White

I never expected to serve in two different countries before my original two year contract with Peace Corps was up. I never imagined two experiences in bordering West African countries could be so completely different. I never dreamed I would be fated to write (what is sure to become the most celebrated and acclaimed) food critique on American food in Mali.

As you probably know by now- or actually if you’re fresh meat- as you don’t know, a group of former-Guinean volunteers (“the RefuG-units…yo” as we like to call ourselves- no idea why the name didn’t catch on) were given foster homes in your giant, hot, culturally dazzling country after our own evacuation last January. Others were full out adopted, leaving the embarrassing G-unit name behind and proudly donning the Mali volunteer title. We were all given new homes, new jobs and made new friends. Now that the Guinea program is opening back up, three of us are over-landing back to our original posts. But before we go, our foster CD, the fabulous Kateri, asked for a comparison between the two Peace Corps experiences.

Where to start?

First of all, it’s hard to compare the actual day-to-day experiences because the three of us that are headed back were all in villages en brousse in Guinea, but served our temporary assignments in the surprisingly developed and fast-paced Bamako. Village life without computers, internet or cell phone or even telephone service is very different from Bamako life with Mercedes Benzes cruising the paved roads, people in their best bazin around every corner, almost constant electricity and running water, multi-storey buildings, and of course a nightlife marketed towards ex-pats and tourists with money to spend but nonetheless enjoyed by impoverished Peace Corps volunteers.

As we all know by a thorough reading of our Volunteer Handbooks, the three goals of Peace Corps are to 1) learn the culture 2) teach the culture when you get back home and 3) oh yeah, development work. I was working heavily on goals 1 and 2 while I was in Guinea, which meant my days were pretty relaxed. I spent most days talking and getting to know my community and attending social events with the occasional business meeting for a project. Needless to say, I didn’t keep long office hours- or for that matter, have an office. Was I in for a surprise when I accepted my assignment as a business consultant for two enterprises: a leather artisan and Mam Cocktail (shameless promotion for excellent third-year position here: which both direly need volunteers to help them continue to cross those last obstacles into regular U.S. exporting)? So after loafing around Tubani So in my evacuee clothes for almost two months, having had my fill of margaritas and home-made tortilla chips from the Cactus, I found myself in professional business dress working almost 50 hours a week.

But those are just work difference examples. As you may be surprised to find out, the organization of the Peace Corps administrations in Guinea and Mali I also found to be different. Peace Corps Mali staff would best be described through the phrase of “let not the blame fall on me” while Peace Corps Guinea staff could be described with “let me give you my kidney.” Both organizations have their strengths, their weaknesses, opportunities and threats, but let’s not get into the whole SWOT analysis. A simple true story will suffice:

Setting: PC Mali office, Volunteer approaches an anonymous staff member who holds a key to the room with all the bike pumps and accessories

Volunteer: (in french) Good Morning!
Anonymous Assistant to Deputy Assistant to Chief Assistant of Chief Motor Pool and

Parts (AADACACMP): I-ni Sogoma!

Volunteer: I don’t speak Bambara, sorry, can you speak in French?

AADACACMP: I-ka-ka-nay?

Volunteer: um, en-say...? en-bah? (resumes French) Excuse me, but my bike has a flat tire, and I was never issued a pump, I see you have many pumps. May I please take one, even if it’s only for the day; I need to inflate my tire as soon as possible, my bike’s really important for my life style here.

AADACACMP: (disappointedly speaks French) I’m afraid I don’t have the power to authorize a pump to you.

Volunteer: Even for the day? What if I just take one real quick and bring it back in a few hours?

AADACACMP: You’re going to have to talk to your APCD. I’m not authorized.
Volunteer: (sighs) But you have all those pumps right there behind you. Okay, I’ll be right back.

(returns with APCD)

AADACACMP: she says she needs a pump for her life.

APCD: well, I’m not authorized to give you a pump, you’re going to have to find out who’s in charge.

Volunteer: well, they’re all right there, can’t I just take one for a few hours and return it? I really need to fill my flat tire, I ride my bike to work.

APCD: well, you’re going to need a form for that, and I’ll need to sign it.

Volunteer: Okay, where can I get the form?
APCD: there’s not a form for that specific thing, you’ll have to write one yourself. When it’s finished, come see me and I’ll sign it.

Volunteer: Really? All this for my bike pump?

APCD: I’m just not authorized. Try the equipment manager.

Volunteer: Equipment manager? I thought he was an equipment manager.

APCD: no, no, he’s not authorized, he’s just one of the Assistants to Deputy Assistant to the Chief Assistant of the Chief of Motor Pool and Parts.

Volunteer: oh. (visits equipment manager)

Equipment manager: can I help you?

Volunteer: hi, I need a bike pump. Are you the man in charge?

Equipment manager: yes I am. You are in luck because we have extra pumps, and I will even let you take one for the rest of your time here. Just sign this form, here, here and initial here. Alright, you’re all set. And don’t forget to return it, there’s a fee if it’s not returned.
Volunteer: no problem, thank you so much.

Well, enough comparing admins, lets get to the real meat of this article. As we’ve been so lucky to see more of Bamako in our 6 months here than most up-country volunteers see in their entire service, I figure I owe it to you all to let you know where to find the best and the worst cheese burger.

6. The Express: This cheeseburger was disappointing after the wait. Slopped with that cheap melted swiss-like cheese, a paste of mayonnaise and chopped onions, a really soggy bitter piece of lettuce and done in the traditional Lebanese style with a few soggy French fries included in the burger, I was not impressed, and therefore rank this cheeseburger last. But hey, it’s still a cheeseburger and you live in Africa. Price: 1,900 CFA

5. Adonis: Get the complet- it’s slightly better than the Express and cheaper too, comes with a fried egg, lettuce, that same cheap swiss-like cheese, mayo, weird sweet ketchup not so bad when you add a little salt, those soggy fries, and a huge bready bun. Not the best, but the most filling and cheapest. Price: 1,500 CFA

4. Relax: Now we’re getting classy. This is one of the best Lebanese restaurants in Bamako, when you go in say hi to Bach, the cake maker. This burger is seasoned with a dash of ginger, and topped with fresh dressings, and served on a beautiful sesame seed bun- but still features the soggy French fries and weird sweetish ketchup. Price: 2,000 CFA

3. West African Fried Chicken: Located in Lafia Bougou, not only does this place have almost KFC quality fried chicken, but a surprisingly impressive cheeseburger, made with real American cheese! It comes with a satisfying sized piece of meat, the regular dressings, mayo and ketchup (the good kind of ketchup) on a huge sesame seed bun. Price: 1,500 CFA

2. Broadway Burger: Bet you veterans are surprised it’s not number one! It’s true, Broadway offers a cute atmosphere, and the burger is beautiful, the meat is tender and dressed with fresh lettuce, onion and tomato, American cheese (which makes all the difference!) and comes on a fresh shiny butter-painted sesame-seed bun but what taints this burger is it’s smaller size, expensive price, and an a-hole waitress. Price: 2,750 CFA (comes with a small handful of fries)

1. McCroqueman: Lame rip-off, but hands down the best burger in Bamako. Ask for the Big Mac. These burger patties are big, and full of flavor because they’re actually flame-broiled burger king style. You get American cheese, the regular dressings, and three pieces of bun in Big Mac tradition. This big guy is filling and has a great price and friendly service! Price: 1,800 CFA


*these views are not necessarily shared or approved of by any other volunteer or member of Peace Corps Guinea